2c:null 2d:["$","title",null,{"children":"History of Speed Climbing and the World Record | joegoodacre | Observable"}] 32:T12d2,Plot.plot({ marginLeft: 70, height: 3000, width: 1200, y: { grid: true, label: "Date", domain:[ new Date("2022-10-20"), new Date("2012-3-28")], }, x: { grid: true, label: "Speed Time", domain:[8, 4.6], labelAnchor: "center", axis: "top", }, color: { legend: true }, marks: [ Plot.barX([8], { fill: ("black"), opacity: .85, }), Plot.ruleX([6], { stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, opacity: .2, }), Plot.ruleX([5], { stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, opacity: .2, }), Plot.ruleX([7], { stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, opacity: .2, }), //World Record Plot.line(WorldRecordMen, { x: "Speedtime", y: d => new Date(d.Date), stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 4, opacity: .6, }), Plot.dot(WorldRecordMen, { x: "Speedtime", y: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 8, stroke:"white", strokeWidth: 3, fill: "#292929", //fillOpacity: 0, //strokeOpacity: .8, title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds, ${new Date(d.Date).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition}.` }), //Vaitcekhovskii Plot.line(Vaitcekhovskii, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#cf2257", }), Plot.dot(Vaitcekhovskii, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"#cf2257", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", fillOpacity: .85, title: d => `Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), //Hroza Plot.line(Hroza, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#fd6041", }), Plot.dot(Hroza, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"#fd6041", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", title: d => `Libor Hroza: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), //Boldyrev Plot.line(Boldyrev, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#fdaa3a", }), Plot.dot(Boldyrev, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"#fdaa3a", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", title: d => `Danyil Boldyrev: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), //Alipour Plot.line(Alipour, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#2da4a8", }), Plot.dot(Alipour, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"#2da4a8", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", title: d => `Reza Alipour: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), //Katibin Plot.line(Katibin, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#116aad", }), Plot.dot(Katibin, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"#116aad", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", title: d => `Kiromal Katibin: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), //Leonardo Plot.line(Leonardo, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#37852e", }), Plot.dot(Leonardo, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"#37852e", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", title: d => `Veddriq Leonardo: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), //ME!!!! Plot.line(Goodacre, { x: "Speedtime", y: d => new Date(d.Date), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#b93cc9", }), Plot.dot(Goodacre, { x: "Speedtime", y: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 4, stroke:"#b93cc9", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", fillOpacity: .85, title: d => `ME!!! ${d.Speedtime} seconds, ${d.Placement} place, ${new Date(d.Date).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition}.` }), ] })33:T738,Plot.plot({ marginLeft: 70, height: 3000, width: 1200, color: { //legend: true, type: 'categorical', scheme: 'set2' }, y: { grid: true, label: "Date", domain:[ new Date("2022-6-20"), new Date("2012-3-28")], }, x: { grid: true, label: "Speed Time", domain:[9.6, 6.3], labelAnchor: "center", axis: "top", }, marks: [ Plot.barX([9.6], { fill: ("black"), opacity: .85, }), Plot.ruleX([9], { stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, opacity: .2, }), Plot.ruleX([8], { stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, opacity: .2, }), Plot.ruleX([7], { stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, opacity: .2, }), //World Record Plot.line(WorldRecordWomen, { x: "Speedtime", y: d => new Date(d.Date), stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 4, opacity: .6, }), Plot.dot(WorldRecordWomen, { x: "Speedtime", y: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 8, stroke:"white", strokeWidth: 3, fill: "#292929", //fillOpacity: 0, //strokeOpacity: .8, title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds, ${new Date(d.Date).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition}.` }), //Athletes Plot.line(dataWomen, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "Athlete", }), Plot.dot(dataWomen, { x: "Time", y: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke:"Athlete", strokeWidth: 2, fill: "black", fillOpacity: .85, title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Time} seconds, ${d.Place} place, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), ] })34:T47b,Plot.plot({ height: 1500, width: 1200, y: { grid: true, label: "Speed Time", domain:[8, 4.8], tickSize: 7 }, fy: { domain: d3.groupSort(dataMen, g => -d3.median(g, d => d.Time), d => d.Athlete), }, x: { grid: true, nice: true, label: "Date", axis: "top", labelAnchor: "center", //domain:[new Date("2012-3-28"), new Date("2022-6-8")], }, color: { type: "categorical", //scheme: "warm", //nice: true, legend: "ramp", }, facet: { data: dataMen, y: "Athlete", x: d => new Date(d.Date), marginRight: 80 }, marks: [ Plot.frame(), Plot.line(dataMen, { //filter: d => /[Men]/i.test(d.Sex), y: "Time", x: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#116aad", }), Plot.dot(dataMen, { y: "Time", x: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke: "World Record", strokeWidth: 4, fill: "white", title: d => ` ${d.Time} seconds, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), ] })35:T489,Plot.plot({ height: 1250, width: 1200, y: { grid: true, label: "Speed Time", domain:[9.6, 6.3], tickSize: 7 }, fy: { domain: d3.groupSort(dataWomen, g => -d3.median(g, d => d.Time), d => d.Athlete) }, x: { grid: true, nice: true, label: "Date", axis: "top", labelAnchor: "center", //domain:[new Date("2012-3-28"), new Date("2022-6-8")], }, color: { type: "categorical", //scheme: "warm", //nice: true, legend: "ramp", }, facet: { data: dataWomen, y: "Athlete", x: d => new Date(d.Date), marginRight: 80 }, marks: [ Plot.frame(), Plot.line(dataWomen, { //filter: d => /[Men]/i.test(d.Sex), y: "Time", x: d => new Date(d.CompDate), strokeWidth: 2, stroke: "#116aad", }), Plot.dot(dataWomen, { y: "Time", x: d => new Date(d.CompDate), r: 4, stroke: "World Record", strokeWidth: 4, fill: "white", title: d => ` ${d.Time} seconds, ${new Date(d.CompDate).toLocaleString("en-US", dateOptions)} at the ${d.Competition} in ${d.Location}.` }), ] })36:T707,Plot.plot({ height: 400, width: 1000, x: { grid: true, label: "Date", labelAnchor: "center", domain:[new Date("2017-4-15"), new Date("2022-10-20")], }, y: { grid: true, label: "Speed Time", labelAnchor: "center", domain:[7.5, 4.8], tickSize: 7, }, marks: [ Plot.barY([7.5], { fill: ("black"), opacity: .85, }), Plot.barY([4.8], { fill: ("white"), }), Plot.line(WorldRecordMen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, }), Plot.dot(WorldRecordMen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 6, stroke:"white", strokeWidth: 3, fill: "#292929", title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds at the ${d.Competition}.` }), Plot.line(USARecordMen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), stroke: "#116aad", //stroke: "#cf2257", strokeWidth: 3, }), Plot.dot(USARecordMen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 6, stroke: "#116aad", //stroke: "#cf2257", strokeWidth: 3, fill: "#292929", //strokeOpacity: .8, title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds at the ${d.Competition}.` }), Plot.line(Goodacre, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), //stroke: "#5aa18d", stroke: "#cf2257", strokeWidth: 1, }), Plot.dot(Goodacre, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 4, stroke: "#cf2257", //stroke: "#5aa18d", strokeWidth: 1, fill: "#292929", title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds at the ${d.Competition}.` }), ] })37:T52f,Plot.plot({ height: 300, width: 1000, x: { grid: true, label: "Date", labelAnchor: "center", domain:[new Date("2013-10-1"), new Date("2022-7-1")], }, y: { grid: true, label: "Speed Time", labelAnchor: "center", domain:[9, 6.4], tickSize: 7, }, marks: [ Plot.barY([9], { fill: ("black"), opacity: .85, }), Plot.barY([6.4], { fill: ("white"), }), Plot.line(WorldRecordWomen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), stroke: "white", strokeWidth: 3, }), Plot.dot(WorldRecordWomen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 6, stroke:"white", strokeWidth: 3, fill: "#292929", title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds at the ${d.Competition}.` }), Plot.line(USARecordWomen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), stroke: "#116aad", //stroke: "#cf2257", strokeWidth: 3, }), Plot.dot(USARecordWomen, { y: "Speedtime", x: d => new Date(d.Date), r: 6, stroke: "#116aad", //stroke: "#cf2257", strokeWidth: 3, fill: "#292929", //strokeOpacity: .8, title: d => `${d.Athlete}: ${d.Speedtime} seconds` }), ] })38:T830,// Copyright 2021, Observable Inc. // Released under the ISC license. // https://observablehq.com/@d3/color-legend function Swatches(color, { columns = null, format, unknown: formatUnknown, swatchSize = 15, swatchWidth = swatchSize, swatchHeight = swatchSize, marginLeft = 0 } = {}) { const id = `-swatches-${Math.random().toString(16).slice(2)}`; const unknown = formatUnknown == null ? undefined : color.unknown(); const unknowns = unknown == null || unknown === d3.scaleImplicit ? [] : [unknown]; const domain = color.domain().concat(unknowns); if (format === undefined) format = x => x === unknown ? formatUnknown : x; function entity(character) { return `&#${character.charCodeAt(0).toString()};`; } if (columns !== null) return htl.html`

${domain.map(value => { const label = `${format(value)}`; return htl.html`

${label}

`; })}

`; return htl.html`

${domain.map(value => htl.html`${format(value)}`)}

`; 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30:{"id":"58683d405a25478e","slug":"history-of-speed-climbing-and-the-world-record","title":"History of Speed Climbing and the World Record","thumbnail":"7973a372bfa388440f91a2347e6f160de85b5fe383c5e2ed619e40d328dceba3","access_level":"public","create_time":"$D2022-05-17T15:54:32.377Z","update_time":"$D2023-02-23T19:25:38.389Z","view_time":null,"first_public_time":"$D2022-06-09T02:45:08.447Z","fork":false,"stars":1,"starred":false,"owner":{"type":"team","id":"bd9cba1c633db55f","login":"joegoodacre","name":"","avatar_url":"https://avatars-next.observableusercontent.com/34833d6f55681100205907d56b8709ae259093c1ad97aa1f8fee33df5de34bfc","tier":"starter_2024"},"version":1174,"publish_version":null,"role":null,"authored":false,"authors":[{"type":"individual","id":"57607f6f32b728ce","login":"joegoodacre","name":"","avatar_url":"https://avatars-next.observableusercontent.com/34833d6f55681100205907d56b8709ae259093c1ad97aa1f8fee33df5de34bfc","tier":null}],"members":[{"type":"individual","id":"57607f6f32b728ce","login":"joegoodacre","name":"","avatar_url":"https://avatars-next.observableusercontent.com/34833d6f55681100205907d56b8709ae259093c1ad97aa1f8fee33df5de34bfc","tier":null,"role":"editor"}],"comments":[],"custom_thumbnail":true,"trashed":false,"subscribed":null,"forks":0,"collection":null,"type":"notebook","body":{"title":"History of Speed Climbing and the World Record","cells":[{"id":0,"value":"# History of Speed Climbing and the World Record","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":553,"value":"Speed climbing, along with bouldering and lead, is one of the three main disciplines in competition climbing associated with the World Cup Circuit by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Simply put, competition speed climbing is the fastest person to the top. Starting in 2007, IFSC created a standardized speed route in which all the holds' placements and orientations are always identical. The speed route is on a 15 meter wall that is angled at exactly 5º (has a grade of roughly 6a+). In each race, two competitors are lined up side by side and are counted down by a three beep system that signals the start and their time does not stop until they hit the timer at the top of the wall. A false start is given if an athlete leaves the starting pad less than a hundredth of second after the final beep.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":561,"value":"md`\n\n\n`","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":569,"value":"This video shows Veddriq Leonardo breaking the world record on the 15 meter wall in 2021 at the IFSC World Cup in Salt Lake City, Utah. Having a regulated speed wall allows for the competitors to continually get faster and break previous world records. Over the past ten years, there have been many new breakthroughs in beta giving the athletes more opportunity to go even faster. These breakthroughs involve simple things as adjusting where you place your hand and larger things like skipping entire holds.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":587,"value":"## Progression of the World Record","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":576,"value":"This first chart shows all of the previous world records in the last ten years in white. There have been a total of six male athletes and five female athletes who have broken the world record within that time. Each color represents a different athlete and the progression of their times leading up to and following their world-record-breaking time. Hovering your mouse over each competition time will show the exact speed time, date, and competition.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":699,"value":"### Men","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":962,"value":"Swatches(d3.scaleOrdinal([ \"Kiromal Katibin (Indonesia)\", \"Libor Hroza (Czech Republic)\", \"Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii (Russia)\", \"Reza Alipour (Iran)\", \"Veddriq Leonardo (Indonesia)\", \"Danyil Boldyrev (Ukraine)\", \"Joe Goodacre/me (USA)\"], d3.schemeTableau10), {\n //columns: \"200px\"\n})","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":47,"value":"$32","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":765,"value":"For the men, the grey lines represent the seven, six, and five second marks. As you can see within the graph that over the past decade, the world record has broken the six second mark and is now closing in on five after a long period without anyone breaking Alipour's world record of 5.48 seconds back in 2017. It was not until 2021 that the two Indonesians, Leonardo and Katibin, were able to overcome that five and a half second mark and they are now inching ever so closely to sub five seconds which would have seemed impossible just a few years ago.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":769,"value":"It is important to note that the competition placement is not solely based on the time shown on the graph. The times shown are the athlete's fastest time of the competition whether it be in qualifications or in any of their runs from the final head to head elimination bracket.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":795,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":703,"value":"### Women","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1026,"value":"Swatches(d3.scaleOrdinal([ \"Anouck Jaubert (France)\", \"Iuliia Kaplina (Russia)\", \"Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland)\", \"YiLing Song (China)\", \"Aries Susanti Rahayu (Indonesia)\"], d3.schemeSet2), {\n //columns: \"120px\"\n})","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":706,"value":"$33","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":823,"value":"For the women, the grey lines represent the nine, eight, and seven second marks. The progression for the women's world record over the past decade has been a lot more consistent than the men with the record being broken in the span of less than a year every time except once. It has also not been broken by a time greater than .2 seconds. For a long time, under seven seconds was the big milestone and now that it has been broken who knows what the limit may be. Aleksandra Miroslaw has risen above recording times almost .4 seconds faster than any other woman and is continually getting faster.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":829,"value":"Another important thing to know is that it was not until recently that the world record could officially be broken in any round of competition. It used to be that the world record could only be broken in finals and if a time was recorded in qualifiers that was faster, it would not be considered an official world record.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":799,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":598,"value":"## Individual Athlete Progression","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":715,"value":"### Men","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":297,"value":"$34","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":839,"value":"This graphic shows all the individual athlete's best times in each of the World Cups they have competed in. It is very interesting to see that the men's world record was not broken by the same athlete in the past decade until Kiromal Katibin within the past year. Also, Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii, Danyil Boldyrev, and Libor Hroza were all competing before this dataset begins and were competing on the regulation speed wall ever since it was created in 2007 so their individual data unfortunately does not show their initial progression. Despite this, we can still see their times after they broke the world record and analyze for any trends. ","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":844,"value":"Surprisingly, there does not seem a similar trend between the times of all the past world record holders. Some athletes have competed in very few World Cups and had a relatively linear progression to their world record time with Katibin being the best example. Then there's Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii who did not have a single other competition with a time within a quarter of a second of his world record time and no World Cup victories after 2011 (which is not even within the dataset). There is also not a single athlete (excluding Katibin) who seems to have gotten faster after breaking the world record. Libor Hroza and Danyil Boldyrev are the only athletes to record a time faster than their world record time only by a very small margin (.11 seconds and .02 seconds respectively).","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":803,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":720,"value":"### Women","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":723,"value":"$35","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":852,"value":"Unlike the men, multiple women have broken the world record more than once. Iuliia Kaplina really stands out as the most dominant female speed climber of the decade having broken the world record eight times although Aleksandra Miroslaw has recently become possibly even more dominant winning nine of her last 11 world level competitions and breaking her own world record three times. ","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":860,"value":"For the most part, it seems like it takes a lot of experience and determination to break the women's world record. The majority of the world record holders for the women have competed in a very large number of competitions before and after they broke the world record. Aleksandra Miroslaw had been competing for nine years before she was able to break the world record! YiLing Song and Aries Susanti Rahayu stand out among the women with very few competitions under their belt comparatively. Despite this, almost all the women have positive and relatively similar trends with their times leading up to their world records. YiLing Song is the only athlete with a large improvement to her time over a very short period. Overall, there is more similarities between the women world record holders compared to the men. More experience and more competitions will result in better times and possibly a world record.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":806,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":869,"value":"## World Record Holder Age","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":903,"value":"**Men average age**: 23.3","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":906,"value":"**Women average age**: 23.9","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":875,"value":"Plot.plot({\n x: {\n round: true,\n label: \"Age\",\n },\n\n y: {\n //grid: true,\n },\n\n color: {\n scheme: \"Set2\"\n },\n\nfacet: {\n data: Age,\n x: \"Sex\",\n label: \" \",\n },\n \n marks: [\n Plot.barY(Age, {\n x: \"Age\",\n y: \"Amount\",\n fill: \"Sex\",\n }),\n Plot.ruleY([0]),\n ]\n})","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":910,"value":"This graph shows the age of each of the athlete's age at the time they broke the world record. There is not much difference between the men and women and the age range is pretty similar for both with the majority being in their early twenties. Recently, there have been athletes as young as 15 years old competing at the world level but considering the data, it will not be likely for anyone at that young of an age to break the world record.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1084,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":602,"value":"## World Record versus USA Record","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":751,"value":"### Men (versus me)","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":406,"value":"$36","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1086,"value":"Although the United States has seen a lot of success in the world of climbing, competitive speed climbing has never been one of it's strongest disciplines. It was not until Noah Bratschi's third place finish at the 2021 IFSC World Championship in Moscow, Russia that the USA won a medal since the creation of the standardized speed wall. As seen in the graph, the USA record (blue) has been quite a bit slower than the world record. Despite that, John Brosler has recently closed the gap down immensely with an impressive performance in Salt Lake City and could challenge the ridiculously fast times of the Indonesians.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1088,"value":"The red line even farther from the world record and even the USA record shows my personal times in all my most recent competitions. It is crazy to see how although I can still hold my own in the highest level of competitions, I am still nowhere near the level of the top speed climbers in the world.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":811,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":757,"value":"### Women","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":741,"value":"$37","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1091,"value":"The women's USA record data has been a lot more difficult to collect prior to 2020 due to the dominant and continually improving Emma Hunt. Within the past two and a half years, the USA record has been broken 10 times (Every time by Emma Hunt). The women's USA record was nowhere near the world record until Hunt broke through the eight second mark and is now closing in on seven which was not too long ago a huge milestone for any woman.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1096,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1093,"value":"## Conclusion","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1098,"value":"Competitive speed climbing is so precise and uncompromising that when one witnesses a world record, they are watching nothing but perfection. After looking at all the past world record holders and trends between their times, it can be seen that there is not one way to beating the world record aside from the athlete putting together a flawless run. ","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1101,"value":"Ten years ago, under five seconds to climb up 15 meters was not even considered feasible and now we are only a tenth of a second from that mark. When Reza Alipour broke the record of 5.48 seconds in 2017 which stood for over three years, people began to believe that was the ceiling of human capabilities. It was not until 2020 that Kiromal Katibin broke that record and he continued by breaking the pattern of peaking after breaking the world record. He has also had a very small amount of experience compared to many of the other athletes proving that a large amount of experience is not required to break the men's world record.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1122,"value":"The women's world record has been broken 14 times in the past decade and seems as though it will continue to be broken. Although it takes a lot of World Cup experience to break the women's world record, every athlete had steady progressions before and after their record breaking time showing that there is no limit to how fast they can go.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1135,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1137,"value":"All data was taken directly from the official [IFSC](https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/athletes) and [USAC](https://usaclimbing.org/) websites.","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1148,"value":"Graphs do not show every single competition time, only enough to be able to see the athlete's progression (I would have put them all if only I had more time).","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":815,"value":"___","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":547,"value":"## Appendix","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"md","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":628,"value":"dataAll = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"dataAll.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":27,"value":"dataMen = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"dataMen6.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":711,"value":"dataWomen = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"dataWomen3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":43,"value":"WorldRecordMen = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"WRM3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":657,"value":"WorldRecordWomen = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"WRW2.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":429,"value":"USARecordMen = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"USARecordMen.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":738,"value":"USARecordWomen = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"USARecordWomen1.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":101,"value":"Vaitcekhovskii = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Vaitcekhovskii3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":108,"value":"Hroza = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Hroza3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":122,"value":"Boldyrev = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Boldyrev3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":129,"value":"Alipour = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Alipour3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":139,"value":"Katibin = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Katibin5.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":217,"value":"Leonardo = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Leonardo5.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":524,"value":"Goodacre = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Goodacre3.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":881,"value":"Age = {\n const a = await FileAttachment(\"Age1.csv\");\n return a.csv();\n}","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":947,"value":"Scheme1 = [\"#cf2257\", \"#fd6041\", \"#fdaa3a\", \"#2da4a8\", \"#116aad\", \"#342dba\", \"#b93cc9\"]","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":959,"value":"AthletesMen = [\"Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii\", \"Danyil Boldyrev\", \"Libor Hroza\", \"Reza Alipour\", \"Kiromal Katibin\", \"Veddriq Leonardo\", \"Joe Goodacre\"]","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":490,"value":"dateOptions = { return {\n //weekday: 'long', \n year: 'numeric', \n month: 'long', \n day: 'numeric'\n} }","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"},{"id":1004,"value":"$38","pinned":false,"hidden":false,"mode":"ojs","author":"$undefined","summary":"$undefined"}],"files":"$W39","stdlib":"1","titling":"auto"}} 31:"$30:body"